
This handsome ruin site held multiple families in the 13th century.
Its floor is a couple stories off the ground, accessible only by ladder (long gone).
Hidden in the canyons of San Juan County, Utah, lie countless ruin sites that have stolen my heart. This day Sam took me to a new one; I promptly fell in love with the neighborhood and felt that I could be very much at home here. The long ladder is missing, though; while I relish the ambience, I’d have trouble ascending. I may have to abandon my plans to move in.
Certainly it is one of the prettiest sites I’ve seen in a long time. On close inspection, what stands out to me after eight centuries is the “humanness” of the place. Painted handprints, geometric petroglyphs, ground-out ladder supports, sooty ceilings, pleasing views — all speak of the inhabitants who built it.
Fifty years ago a paragraph was written about magnificent Cliff House at Mesa Verde National Park. The author makes an emotional connection that has helped me experience all ancient sites in a new way:
“Unfortunate indeed, is he who views this ancient city and sees only the towering walls. Unfortunate because the stones are the least important part. [The ruin] is really built on the hopes and desires, the joys and the sorrows of the industrious people. It is not a cold empty city, for it’s still warm with the emotions of its builders. In each fingerprint and tool mark lies the prayers of a young couple for a home filled with children and happiness. Each storage bin is chinked with a farmer’s prayers for a bountiful harvest. In each plastered kiva wall is an ancient priest’s reverence for his gods. A pot is not just a piece of baked clay: it is an ancient potter’s molded prayer for beauty and strength. Each solid wall is a testimony of the success; each shattered human bone, each broken jar, is an admission of defeat.”
— Don Watson, The Indians of the Mesa Verde
Hopelessly captivated by the resilience and resourcefulness of ancient dwellers, I look forward to future explorations. It’s one thing to see displays in a museum; another entirely to encounter these places in the real world, where each of my senses adds further understanding, providing the ‘gestalt’ instead of isolated bits. It’s wonderful, and sweet, and rich beyond telling.
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Comment by leroque — March 28, 2012 @ 8:22 am |
I love that ruin, Kathryn! Somewhere I saw a pic of the original exploring expedition’s discovery of the site and am so amazed at how little it has changed in 100+ years. Neat to see you exploring outside of the park. I so hope I can get down there this Spring!
John
Comment by John Morrow — March 28, 2012 @ 9:12 am |
Very nice photos. Thank you. Don’t know about you, but here’s the paradox for me… The more time I spend in the wilderness, traveling where others have gone before, the more connected I feel to the earth and all the people who’ve called it home. But put me in the middle of a large, noisy crowd, and…well, not so much. I feel lost.
Loved the quote by Don Watson. I’ve not read any of his writing, so thanks for passing it along
Comment by Ron Carroll — March 29, 2012 @ 8:35 pm |