Ranger Kathryn's Arches

August 11, 2010

Peekaboo Springs, Needles: packed with surprises

Kathryn and shield pictographs at Peekaboo Springs

Sunflowers gone wild... tens of thousands of them

…or is it LIFE, packed with surprises? Every day is such an adventure. It’s an adventure to wake up and be breathing.

As three of us undertook a ten-mile hike in the gorgeous summer weather, we were not prepared for the audacity of the day’s gifts to us. It’s as if the Giver of all good gifts delighted to open his hand and unleash nonstop beauty and joy, just for us. Endless fields of sunflowers welcomed us to the parkland, an oddity in any other August. A Collared Lizard (my favorite reptile, remember?) startled us at the beginning of the hike, and a Long-Nosed Leopard Lizard (second fave) at the end. Cumulus clouds shadowed us, keeping the heat down and providing much-needed shade intervals as well as photographic interest. Most of the hike was high on the exposed sandstone benches, giving birds’-eye views of the canyons and washes, with stunning vistas across miles of national parkland. Vast stone walls were pierced by clefts and openings that gave sneak previews into upcoming canyons. A powerful panel of pictographs awaited us at the 5-mile far point, infusing wonder and intrigue as we pondered the inhabitants who painted them 800 and 3000 years ago. As we started back, we stumbled upon an area of ancient granaries, finding seven (7!) structures in one little neighborhood. To top it off, a majestic golden eagle posed for photographs as we drove out of the park. I could hardly take it all in; it is securely in my top five favorite hikes of all time. I must go back, in another season. I may take with me those who have eyes with which to see and savor the beauty; I may journey alone with my grateful heart.

Collared Lizard studying me

My hand... another's hand. Eight centuries apart.

Kathryn & Mariana hike the Needles.

This sentinel stands watch over the pictographs

Peek-a-boo!

A granary for crop storage -- sadly, some oaf "helped" rebuild the top

Useful 12-rung ladder, courtesy of NPS

Rocks have such beauty.

May 5, 2010

Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon

The "Great Ghost Panel" at the Great Gallery; tallest figure 7 feet

It’s only been a couple of years that I’ve been wanting to hike into Horseshoe Canyon, in the Maze District of Canyonlands National Park, to view some of the finest pictographs in North America. An hour-plus on paved roads, an hour on mesa-top dirt roads, and several hours of hiking took me there today.

Love those last three words... an NPS afterthought?

Because we did not get our summer monsoon rains late last summer, and we have had no flash flooding this spring, this 6.5-mile hike feels a lot more like a 10-mile hike as deep soft sand fills the wash now. It’s challenging to hike in, but at least the temps in the 60s and 70s made it more bearable. This hike is brutal in the hot summer months.

Sara and I headed down with anticipation, keeping our eyes open for rattlesnakes that might be sunning themselves on the path. We saw only dinosaur footprints marked by cairns. (This did not disappoint us.) Occasional bird calls from halfway down the canyon enticed us onward. We had the place to ourselves; there was no noise other than our boots on the Navajo sandstone and intermittent puffs of wind rustling the blackbrush. A single primrose along the trail dispensed its perfume as we passed, and I knelt down to inhale deeply of this ephemeral scent. Signs of a higher water table greeted us at the bottom, as Fremont’s Cottonwoods were abundant.

Hunting panel at Horseshoe Shelter - that's some pretty large prey!

The first panel of pictographs appeared as we stood at a fork in the trail and wondered which way to go. Dashing for the canyon walls, we found a hunting panel with a bow-and-arrow man. In this vicinity, that means post-1100 A.D., the most recent of this canyon’s art. My heart formed an immediate connection with the artist as I struggled to grasp his lifestyle.

Small center figure -- suppliant? beseeching? It's the only one with legs in the entire panel

We walked, mostly in silence, a couple of miles upstream before the prize came into view: “The Louvre of the Southwest,” a 200-foot panel of life-sized figures painted by Archaic peoples who lived between 2500 B.C. and 500 A.D. I stopped dead in my tracks and my jaw fell open. No matter how beautiful it looked in my books, I was now HERE. Goosebumps rose.

a compelling figure

Image after image of elongated, limbless, floating creatures decorate the east canyon wall. Some are solid, some are extravagantly embellished, some are bug-eyed, some are eyeless, but all the torsos are just staring staring staring right back at me as I explore every one in turn. To me, the most riveting is the spectral outline (header photo) surrounded by dark figures. Was this a shaman? An important person? Part of their mythology? How do I interpret this without imposing my own cultural constraints on the artists of thousands of years ago?

We wondered aloud how the ancient people experienced this canyon, and whether it was significantly different thousands of years ago when the rock art was painted. What was the climate like? What water source did they depend on? How many Archaic people inhabited the area? What pigments did they use? Did these hunter-gatherers create incredible rock art because they had time on their hands? And… what were they trying to preserve?

A view down the long panel

The NPS has fashioned comfy stone benches underneath a stand of cottonwoods, and provides two chained ammo boxes of surprises: one with exquisite interpretive literature and a journal to sign, and the other with a pair of binoculars to view the mural more closely. We plunked ourselves down and pulled out our clementines, almonds, and pretzels… and gazed at, contemplated, scrutinized the Barrier Canyon Style art before us. An entire subset of rock art was named after this type site, as the current Horseshoe Canyon was formerly called Barrier Canyon. It is the epicenter for southwestern pictography, and it had our full attention.

Eventually another human being came into view. Rats. We weren’t the only ones in this canyon on a gorgeous spring day. Vacating the area to give him some private moments with the figures, we headed back downstream a mile to a site with further rock art in it.

Alcove Gallery: least impressive rock art, most impressive space. See Sara for scale.

This breathtaking alcove might be eight stories tall; the space was magnificent. I can’t describe it except to say that I instantly felt a strong connection with this space/place, and wanted to linger as long as humanly possible to experience its beauty and uniqueness. Very few spaces have had an effect that powerful on me. With great sadness I viewed the 20th-century vandalism incised over some of the pictographs here.

Thank you, Archaics!

Time to head back to our car; it felt far away in both space and time. Our hearts were full, however, and profoundly changed for having had this opportunity to interact with the images left on porous rock by a nomadic people two to four millennia ago.

March 25, 2010

Sego Canyon Rock Art

Limbless mummies. Bug-eyed space aliens. Shamanistic anthropomorphs. Trapezoidal beings. One of Utah’s best collections of rock art is found in this canyon north of Thompson Springs. The National Register of Historic Places helps preserve an gallery of outdoor artwork in this setting.

Alien bug-eyed anthropomorph with unusual accompaniments; Barrier Canyon style, over 2000 yr old

Three different cultures are represented here, and their artwork is utterly distinctive. The Barrier Canyon style, two to three thousand years old, is mysterious and beautiful. These figures are all painted (pictographs) and many are life-sized.

The Fremont culture flourished here between 600 and 1250 A.D. Their figures typically have trapezoidal heads and bodies, and often wear necklaces. A richly-decorated panel shows multiple individuals.

I’ve no photograph for the Ute artwork, but it is post-Spanish and therefore shows horses.

I find pictographs and petroglyphs deeply intriguing. They help me make an emotional connection to people far removed. What scenes from their lives were worthy of depicting? What can we infer about their lifestyle? Did they have pets? Why is the artwork concentrated in certain places?

Fremont culture (about 1000 yrs ago)

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